{"id":4058,"date":"2015-06-04T09:19:01","date_gmt":"2015-06-04T08:19:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/?p=4058"},"modified":"2015-06-04T09:31:41","modified_gmt":"2015-06-04T08:31:41","slug":"diversity-report-how-do-the-spring-2015-fashion-campaigns-measure-up-thefashionspot-com-04-06-2015","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/?p=4058","title":{"rendered":"Diversity Report: How Do the Spring 2015 Fashion Campaigns Measure Up? (article in English\/ thefashionspot.com \/04.06.2015)"},"content":{"rendered":"

In 1982, the advertising industry was turned upside down. That was the year designerElio Fiorucci<\/a> organized a lunch at the Tower of Pisa restaurant with his friends Luciano Benetton<\/a>, the founder of the Italian fashion brand now known as Benetton Group S.p.A.<\/a>, and Milanese photographer Oliviero Toscani<\/a>. The meeting was perfectly timed. Benetton had just made the decision to advertise and Fiorucci was convinced Toscani was the man for the job. Turns out, he was right.<\/p>\n

\"Oliviero<\/p>\n

For the next 18 years, Toscani produced arresting, controversial and multi-cultural campaigns for Benetton that catapulted the little-known clothing brand into a household name and set the tone for a new age of fashion advertising. With his signature mix of social commentary and commerce, Toscani addressed a wide range of issues from AIDS and racism to war and death row with models of varying ages, races and body types.<\/p>\n

RACE<\/h3>\n

Out of the 577 fashion campaigns we examined, 811 models* were cast. The result?
\n84.7 percent were white. **In comparison, Asian models came in at a distant second at 5.7 percent, followed by black models at 5.1 percent and Latina models at 2.3 percent.<\/p>\n

\"Racial<\/p>\n

RACIAL DIVERSITY BREAKDOWN FOR SPRING 2015 FASHION AD CAMPAIGNS; IMAGE: THEFASHIONSPOT<\/p>\n

Some of the brands that lacked diversity were repeat offenders. For instance, Saint Laurent<\/a>\u2019s campaigns (including ready-to-wear and Psych Rock) featured seven models total this season\u2014all were white. Looking back, the last time a model of color was represented in a Saint Laurent fashion campaign was for Fall 2008 when Naomi Campbell<\/a>\u00a0was shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin<\/a> during designerStefano Pilati<\/a>\u2019s tenure.<\/p>\n

The same goes for Chlo\u00e9<\/a>\u00a0. For spring, the brand cast white models\u00a0Caroline Trentini<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Eniko Mihalik.<\/a>\u00a0What\u2019s shocking is that Chlo\u00e9\u00a0has not cast a model of color in its ready-to-wear campaigns since Spring 2001 when former creative director\u00a0Stella McCartney<\/a>\u00a0selected\u00a0Jessica White<\/a>\u00a0as the face of the brand.<\/p>\n

\"Chloe<\/p>\n

CHLOE SPRING 2015 CAMPAIGN; IMAGE: COURTESY<\/p>\n

On a positive note, a number of brands stepped it up in the diversity department. Naomi Campbell and Jourdan Dunn<\/a> hugged it out for Burberry Prorsum<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Joan Smalls<\/a>\u00a0modeled solo for Prabal Gurung<\/a>. On the celebrity front, Rihanna<\/a> secured Puma,<\/a>Nicki Minaj<\/a> nabbed Roberto Cavalli<\/a>, Solange<\/a> fronted Eleven Paris<\/a> and Kim Kardashian and Kanye West<\/a> posed for Balmain.<\/p>\n

\"Burberry<\/p>\n

BURBERRY PRORSUM SPRING 2015 CAMPAIGN; IMAGE: COURTESY<\/p>\n

Additionally, the award for one of the more diverse retailers goes to Barneys New York<\/a>, which raised the bar with its \u201cBetter Than Ever\u201d Spring ad, photographed byBruce Weber.<\/a> This body-positive ad features a medley of supermodels, aged 39 and up, including Bethann Hardison<\/a>,Brooke Shields<\/a>, Christie Brinkley<\/a>, Elaine Irwin<\/a>, Kiara Kabukuru<\/a>, Kirsten Owen<\/a>, Pat Cleveland<\/a>, Stephanie Seymour<\/a>, Susanne Bartsch<\/a> and Veronica Webb<\/a>. Here, models of color made up 40 percent.<\/p>\n

After all the fashion campaigns had been tallied,\u00a0Binx Walton<\/a>\u00a0took home top honors for being the most booked model. She scored nine ads, which included the likes of\u00a0Alexander Wang<\/a>, Coach<\/a>, Fendi<\/a> and Tom Ford<\/a>.<\/p>\n

SIZE<\/h3>\n

\"Lane<\/p>\n

LANE BRYANT SPRING 2015 CAMPAIGN; IMAGE: COURTESY<\/p>\n

Out of the entire cast for Spring 2015, plus-size models<\/a> only accounted for 1 percent of models in high-profile fashion ads. These castings were represented by three mass-market plus-size brands. Ashley Graham<\/a>, the size 16 model who is best known as the first plus-size model to be featured in a Sports Illustrated<\/em> Swimsuit Issue<\/em> ad, posed forSwimsuits For All<\/a>. Meanwhile, Candice Huffine<\/a>, who recently launched a #LovedByCandice capsule collection with Italian brand Elena Miro<\/a>, took the top spot at Mango\u2019s plus-size line Violeta<\/a>. Both women also appeared in\u00a0Lane Bryant\u2019s<\/a>\u00a0#ImNoAngel Spring ad, alongside\u00a0Marquita Pring<\/a>,\u00a0Victoria Lee<\/a>,\u00a0Justine Legault<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Elly Mayday<\/a>. No plus-size models were represented in ads for luxury brands.<\/p>\n

\"Size<\/p>\n

SIZE DIVERSITY BREAKDOWN FOR SPRING 2015 FASHION AD CAMPAIGNS; IMAGE: THEFASHIONSPOT<\/p>\n

AGE<\/h3>\n

\"Barneys<\/p>\n

BARNEYS \u201cBETTER THAN EVER\u201d SPRING 2015 CAMPAIGN; IMAGE: COURTESY<\/p>\n

For this particular study, we didn\u2019t analyze age for every Spring 2015 campaign. However, it\u2019s important to note that a handful of brands cast models over the age of 40. In addition to the Barneys \u201cBetter Than Ever\u201d campaign, C\u00e9line<\/a>\u00a0photographed 80-year-old literary icon Joan Didion<\/a>\u00a0and Saint Laurent signed 71-year-old folk music legend Joni Mitchell<\/a>. Both Alexis Bittar<\/a> and Kate Spade<\/a>\u00a0shot 93-year-old designer and fashion iconIris Apfel<\/a>.<\/p>\n

MASS MARKET VS. LUXURY<\/h3>\n

\"DKNY<\/p>\n

DKNY JEANS SPRING 2015 CAMPAIGN; IMAGE: COURTESY<\/p>\n

Overall, mass market brands were more likely to cast a model of color \u2014 a pattern that rang true for\u00a02014 campaigns<\/a>\u00a0as well.\u00a0For fashion, Topshop<\/a> chose Joline Braun<\/a> for its in-store ad, while shoe brand Sam Edelman<\/a> selected Charlene Almarvez<\/a> and Rossy Herrera<\/a>(along with Josephine Skriver<\/a>). H&M<\/a>, a brand that regularly champions diversity, picked\u00a0four models of color to appear in three different campaigns. This grouping includesAya Jones<\/a>\u2018 solo act for H&M Loves Coachella, Arlenis Sosa<\/a> and Rose Bertram<\/a> for H&M Sport and Joan Smalls for H&M Summer (along with Adriana Lima, Doutzen Kroes<\/a> andNatasha Poly<\/a>). And finally, DKNY continued its diversity streak. The brand cast\u00a0Binx Walton (DKNY and DKNY Jeans), Soo Joo Park (DKNY Jeans), Dylan Xue<\/a> (DKNY Online) and Xiao Wen Ju<\/a> (DKNY).<\/p>\n

But not all mass market brands got the memo.\u00a0Banana Republic<\/a>, LOFT<\/a>, French Connection<\/a> and\u00a0Zara<\/a>\u00a0all lacked models of color this season.<\/p>\n

\"Valentino<\/p>\n

VALENTINO SPRING 2015 CAMPAIGN; IMAGE: COURTESY<\/p>\n

More often than not, this was also\u00a0the case for luxury brands. Campaigns for Lanvin<\/a>, Max Mara<\/a>, Versace<\/a>, Valentino<\/a>, Prada<\/a>, Carolina Herrera<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Christian Dior<\/a>, along with Saint Laurent and Chlo\u00e9 as previously stated, were entirely whitewashed.\u00a0On the flip side, a number of high-priced brands, like Chanel<\/a> (L\u2019Instant), Kenzo<\/a>\u00a0and Agent Provocateur<\/a>, made a concerted effort to exclusively\u00a0cast models of color in major campaigns ranging from\u00a0watches to ready-to-wear.<\/p>\n

\"Prabal<\/p>\n

PRABAL GURUNG SPRING 2015 CAMPAIGN; IMAGE: COURTESY<\/p>\n

Findings from this\u00a0Spring 2015 ad report are almost identical to our\u00a02014 campaign<\/a>\u00a0analysis, published in December, which showed that 85.97 percent of womenswear ads were white. The good news? We have no where to go but up.<\/p>\n

The tFS team did our best to include the major fashion print campaigns. If we missed something, let us know!<\/em><\/p>\n

With additional reporting by Elena Drogaytseva.<\/em><\/p>\n

*The term model in this case also includes celebrities featured in campaigns.<\/em><\/p>\n

**Models of color were categorized as those who appear to be nonwhite or of mixed backgrounds. Models included in the Latin category are classified as nonwhite Latins that do not appear to be strongly Afro-Latin.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

Source:\u00a0thefashionspot.com<\/a>\u00a0\/\u00a0May 13th, 2015 \/\u00a0Maria Denardo<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In 1982, the advertising industry was turned upside down. That was the year designerElio Fiorucci organized a lunch at the Tower of Pisa restaurant with his friends Luciano Benetton, the founder of the Italian fashion brand now known as BenettonLeggi →<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[791],"tags":[],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4058"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4058"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4058\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4062,"href":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4058\/revisions\/4062"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4058"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4058"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.olivierotoscanistudio.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4058"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}